Thursday, February 23, 2012

Otres Beach

Still here...

... another day another sunrise taiji on beach, swim, eat, sunset, bed by 9.30pm! Hired a kayak and 3 of us paddled over to the island opposite and I swam round it then paddled and swam back. Nothing much happens here which is 'just perfect'.

Having said that we hired a motorbike yesterday to go into town so Sim could change her bus ticket to Ho Chi Min. Found a wonderful Italian gelateria - best lime ice cream!! Also brought back a nice 'som or' (pomelo) which took an hour to peel and 10 mins to eat!

Later Cornelia went off to the national park but got stopped en route by the police and fined $2 for not having her licence - which was in the bungalow. The police get paid so little here and in Thailand so they have to set up these road blocks for pocket money!

Today Simone turned rather 'rosy' after a day in the shade! (Simone sensorship: I had to delete the photo from the blog). I was hiding underneath my sarong as the sandflies are munching their way thro any bit of flesh I dare to bare.


Sunday, February 19, 2012

Sunshine in Sihanoukville

The travel Buddha is definitely smiling upon us. Our first night was at Siddharta Guest House on the tourist hell street near the port. The USP (unique or sole selling point) was the mattresses! Otherwise pretty seedy place run by (s)expat Aussie and young Cambodian wife.

We got the first boat out to bamboo island where it poured down even through the bar. The bungalows were a nightmare and certainly didn't meet even the now relaxed Swiss hygiene standards so we fled back to the mainland. The entertainment was provided by Mai from Ho Chi Minh who was on a 3 island boat trip. She was half the height and weight of the Swissters!!! First she jumped off the boat and lost her glasses. I found my goggles & jumped in, dived down and there they were! Simone then gave her relationship guidance as she was 29 and afraid of being left on the shelf and was being toyed with by a Canadian tour guide.

Back on the mainland, Simone and I hired a motorbike and headed in search of a place to stay for 10 nights that was affordable and clean. And we found the wee Strawberry (La Fraise by the beach!) run by Dublin Don and a Cambodian family. This part of Ostres beach was the quiet, family, older couple end of the otherwise heinous tourist hole.

This morning after taiji on the narrow hightide beach Simone & I walked to the end of the beach only to find Dora, the lesbian from Melbourne who with 4 business partners was creating The Secret Garden resort with aircon bungalows, pool etc. We had tea & coffee and a game of ping pong with a couple of Cambidian kids.

I'm going to give Sim a Tui Na massage on the beach lounger at Banana Tree beach, then listen to Chinese language lesson. Cornelia has gone to post office in town then tonight they're going to christen the draught beer from the newly installed tap and maybe try out the pool at the secret garden!

Life is sweet on the slow wave.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Rain in Phnom Penh

Really raining now - as I was doing taiji earlier the torrent on corrugated tin roof reminded me of Ruam Rudi (school in Bangkok) - I used to go up to top floor and listen to the roar if the rain.

Was also chillingly eerie as I was on veranda of this beautiful Boddhi Tree guest house and instead if the sun rising in front of me I could see through the obscurity of dawn the classrooms/cells of Tuol Sleng, the school turned prison of torture and genocide just 35 years ago - during the time I lived in Bangkok and just after Mum and Grandma climbed through the barbed wire fence that a man 'kindly cut' so they could get to Ankhor Wat.

Simone and Cornelia were in Phnom Penh a week ago so this is just a stopover en route to Sinhoukville and islands. But Sim took me on a tuktuk city tour and we met Cornelia at very colonial FCCC (Foreign Correspondents Club of Cambodia) for cocktails.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Ankhor Wat 2012


Skip to pics if you want...

Lying in a hammock under the cool of the trees on East side of Ankhor Wat, enjoying (vive Indochine) baguette & le vache qui ri picnic lunch, escaping the midday sun.

We were here for sunrise yesterday on our 5am start tuktuk tour. Quite a different feel now after cycling out from town (Siem Reap).

Crossing Thai-Cambodian border at Poipet was like stepping back in time to the pre-PolPot/Killing Fields days.

Men pushing huge wooden carts piled high w produce across the border and along roads was a dramatic contrast from modern Thailand. En route to Siem Reap, the driver pulled over at a street stall and bought a bag if crispy batter fried blackbirds (head, beak, feet & all!). Then an extended stop at resto so he and a woman could crunch their way through the lot!!!

Latifa warned me that food in Cambodia was terrible. I remained open minded but by day two I reverted to Chiangmai Thai resto and will return tonight! Cornelia braved a spider (just a garlicy leg, the body proved a little too much for her still!).

After visiting Ankhor Wat at sunrise and Bayon to find Grandma's photo spot we wandered around the Tomb Raider temple encroached by tree roots and then sat waiting by the lake for the heat to subside to climb up Banteray Mound to watch sunset.

This morning I continued my meditation practice doing standing qigong on our balcony. I opened my eyes once I lost concentration to find a deep pinky-red ball rising up right in front of me! Just perfect!

Cornelia and Sim have been in Cambodia for over a week now. Sim did a 2day trip east to visit Pavethet, the child she's been sponsoring for 3+ years through Action Aid. Rural life seemed hot and apart from taping sap from the Forrest to use for boat glue there wasn't much to village life except avoid the sun.

Tomorrow we head for the islands. A stop-over in Phnom Pen so I get a sense if the capital and then another bus to Sinhoukville. I want a week to relax before Bangkok and the ongoing nightmare of trying to get my visa for China, family visits and topping up on Thai friends, culture and food. I may not return for quite a few years, until I need to resign the lease on dad's house to enable the housekeeper and son to remain. I hope the house doesn't collapse on them!

Ankhor Wat: (1970 and) 14 Feb 2012

Forty years ago Grandma Beckhuson (on a visa renewal run from Bangkok) visited the ruins.

I took a photo of a photo I have at home of Grandma standing beside a head of a budha in Banyon temple here. My mission was to find that spot and get a pic of myself there. Noone more qualified than architect Cornelia to locate that exact head. After at least five photos of 'this is the spot' we eventually found the head. It was a life changing moment!









Sunday, February 12, 2012

Buddha Boot (Candle) Camp

The short version
Lots of words to say... finally... but if you can't be bothered to read, just be assured that any inkling of donning a white robe and retreating into the forrest for the rest of my days soon came to an end on Day 3 when as the head monk said:
"There is no me eating this food"...

... well, what's the point of living then? I'll stay attached to my ego and struggle on.

For those of you who want to know more, read on otherwise here's a pic, turn right in front of Nirvana and move on to next post...




10 Days out of my life
Waking up on Day 10 on the last dong of the 4am gong with a rush of "I'm so excited, I just can't hide it...." by the Pointer Sisters was perhaps (not) the best reflection of my state of meditative bliss and enlightenment!

It was pure hell.... at times and at others absolute calm. Not talking was easy. It was the excessive commentary of chatter from the teasing monkey mind and the occasional pawing of the "caged tiger in the heart". Amid this was the constancy of nature, the sunrise over the lilypond after yoga, the birdcalls and cackles, the haunting "tukair" of the lizard shuddering the evening air and the reassuring "you can do it" Punch and Judy show put on at dusk by a bird that would help me to stay in the excruciating seated meditation position until the bell would release us to group walking meditation around the ponds to stand and stare and silently bay at the full moon.

There was a definite element of yoga-yogi transcendental wahwahism among the 120 meditators and then a Kate Winslett (a la Hideous Kinky - if you've seen that film), the Russian actress Olga who would dare to break the rule and lie down in the mediation hall, a Russian guy who'd wander around creating expressive balanced sculptures around the fields and ponds that constituted our hermitage for 10 days, and the rather unhinged and fragile young woman who literally howled into the open mic on the last night and then sobbed uncontrollably during the final reading - Chief Seattle's Speech (recreated by Ted Perry 1970, worth a read).

So the meals. Alas no curry for breakfast, just a really bland brown rice slurry with a chinese leaf for breakfast at 7.30 and then lunch at 12.30, usually curry, brown rice and tofu in various guises. I lost my winter insulation and the spine began to wear a little on the wooden bed (with bamboo mat, blanket and mosquito net, not forgetting the wooden pillow, with dip carved for the head. Nun Supranee kindly suggested we cover this with the blanket for a good nights rest). Surprisingly (or not, due to the relentless rigour of the schedule from 4am-9.30pm (lights out) of sitting, standing, walking meditation, readings, Dhamma talks, chores. In the time off teeth cleaning and clothes washing became an obsession. The hot spring in a rush after the morning chore before the morning bell calling us back to the meditation hall was a moment of relief. The back unblocked and the mind let go. But then it was a rush back, wearing the sarong and towel to cover the arms, to the women's dorm where the sarong stayed on as washing was around a communal trough of water with "cun" or bowls to pour water over the body. We were expected to respect Thai modesty and temple tradition.

Sanity was maintained by Mae Chee (Nun) Supranee who taught us yoga in the morning and chanting in Pali and Loving Kindness Meditation at the end of the afternoon before tea (or excessively sweet milo/choc milk) that was our dinner. Her presence in the meditation room with the monk Acharn Po (aged 80 and still sitting cross legged) was an inspiring presence that kept me on that meditation mat despite bodily remonstrations. I had to resort to my standing qigong arms position as arms on the lap or knees became too painful. I hated those yoga people for being so comfortably bendy. In fact I hated everyone. And then the monk or the speakers would somehow notice my state of mind and say that hate only leads to "Ducca" (Pali word for suffering) as the person you hate doesn't notice and it's only yourself who is feeling the hate.

Tandamaveda, a rather sardonic forrest monk from Bristol fast tracked us through the breathing "anapanasati" practice and the Buddha's Dhamma teachings which for him were more of a profound theoretical and practical psychology than a spiritual quest. He disdainfully dissed the hand that fed him criticising the Thai's for Brahman demonism and their fear of "peeh" or ghosts, their belief in reincarnation which brings them to feed him and his fellow monks (who apparently often smell of pee cos they wear no knickers!). His belief was that Buddhism as preached by the late Acharn Buddadahsa who founded Wat Suan Mokkh is about controlling the mind and not letting it become attached - No me, no mine - through the 'defilements' of lust, ignorance and vengence (represented by the cockerel, pig and snake in the Tibbetan Wheel of Life), which once purified can become enlightened and not reborn which only leads to suffering etc. This is quite different from the Hindu idea of reincarnation adopted by many that good deeds in this life will bring us back into a higher cast in the next one. Enough of the preaching. I actually slept through a lot of the lunchtime talks in the heat of the afternoon.

What I did get out of the retreat were moments of self-realisation about ingrained patterns of behaving that really are not worth holding on to. On the board one of the daily messages says:
"It's not what you get out of a retreat, it's what you let go".

The universe was talking to me and no more so than when we were having tea before leaving (I'd spent at least an hour or two every day needlessly pondering on modes of transport for my escape) when a really whacky 70 something Canadian (who's motto was "Everything is just perfect!") announced "If anyone wants a lift to Bangkok..." "Yes please". I was back in Bangkok intime for late noodle lunch with PORK (breaking the first of the five or eight precepts of not taking life). The other Canadian who was a decade younger but spinning perilously near the edge had a moment of enlightenment on his last retreat in 2009 when a centipede climbed up his back and only when he went to move it with his hand did it bite him. The pain was excruciating for a few hours, but the following day had an outer body mediation experience for about 2 hours and apologised to all the bugs he'd been scared of and killed in his previous years of life. This made me relieved that on Day 7, the sweet Thai woman behind me had noticed and pointed out the centipede crawling on to the sack that we and our pillows sat on. I picked up the sack and took it out to the field, freed the beast. The other interesting thing was that all 3 of us in the car had "issues" with our fathers. I felt quite fortunate as mind hadn't beaten the crap out of me when I was young. But although at least a decade separated us our fathers all died within 2 months of each other in 2011.

Several swims, lovely meals, morning qigong on the balcony watching the squirrels playing in the mango tree below, the black cats walking on corrugated iron roofs and listening to the matinal cacophany of bird call as five suns rise reflected on the windows in the sister Harmony II building on Pahonyotin Soi 11. However, I really notice the smoke in the city air which is a little suffocating after a week on an island and 10 days in the forrest.

Enjoying nice chats with my friends Tang and Latifa and I feel ready to head to Cambodia in the morning to join Simone and Cornelia.