itan: 4. Cycling islands

Shimanami Kaido: Onomichi to (2 islands short of) Imabari - 29/30 March 2025

Cherry blossom lined our route along Shimanami Kaido - the cyclist’s paradise spanning six islands in the Seto Inland Sea, south of Hiroshima.

The city run bike hire place was run by quirky elderly men who managed to find a “little assist” bike which was sufficiently upright to avoid back ache but was like a clown-like with her knees bumping the handlebars. With my Giant cross bike we set off on the small ferry to Mukaishima Island crossing one of many impressive suspension bridges.

On the first island, Mukaishima, we chatted to Kawa who was checking on his rental property and invited us to stay next time. His guests were out kayaking. He had placed oranges along the walls, the symbol of Setoda where we were heading. Lemons were also grown and all things lemon from lemonade to cakes and biscuits were everywhere.

We went off the blue marked roads of the Shimanami Kaido and took a quieter yellow route, not just for the views but also the chocolate factory! In operation since 2022 it on the 2nd floor of a former flower or flour factory built by “uncles”. The two lovely women talked us through the shades of hexagonal chocolate and drink delights and we shared the most addictive hot chocolate and rich dark choc cake.

Felt a bit of a lightweight only cycling the 70k of Shimanami Kaido and stopping along the way for chocolate as met William from Brittany who was conquering the world on his bicycle - he’d left France 18 months ago, having cycled through Afghanistan, Iran, Tajikistan,….. South Korea (supposed to be an amazing route N to S. His life changing journey was triggered by being ripped off by someone when he put a deposit down on a house. Funny how fate works.

We left William and headed to our cosy little hostel Nest, Youbune onsen warmed us up as we arrived cold and windswept and a few doors down was our favourite restaurant in Japan (so far) Keima, a family run sushi and “Kamameshi” (釜飯 - a Japanese rice dish cooked in a small metal pot called a “kama”. We chose sushi set and sea bream kamameshi which took 30 mins to prepare. Nothing compared to the skill of cutting a daikon into a spiral that was then sliced into thin strips on which to place sushi and sashimi.

Didn’t quite make it to sunset beach

The location of Nest was perfect for morning qigong by the shrine and taiji behind the beach wall.

I got my sunset beach swim the next day - found a little rocky bay to enter which was sheltered from the wind.

We then decided to do the art tour of Omishima Island which meant we ran out of time to complete the 6 island route.

We decided not to take a 1.5hr bus ride back to Onomichi but cycle back instead. Back at Setoda Simone had had enough of clown cycling and decided to save her knees to hike the Nakadendo Way. So she buses back to mainland and i cycled back 30k making it an 80k cycling day. Felt like finishing a triathlon.

Planning my 60th - back to Japan for summer school with the S Korea bike ride en route (home). And I’ll complete the Shimanami Kaido as well.

And I’ll definitely return to our lovely excitable squeaky young receptionists at Urashima Inn Gangi - the boat hotel with a view over the bay and a roof for taiji and our laundry that they took in and placed with our bags in our new room on return from Shimanami