Tanukigafuchi (Racoon Dog Pool)

Atero Valley - Racoon dog dip

 

This pool was said to be used as a mirror for foxes and Racoon dogs to check their disguises according to folklore, such is the glacier green clarity of the water that Simone & I plunged into… twice! 

Beware the bears 

Snow-capped Japan Alps

After an overindulgent breakfast in our little “shoji” (wooden and paper) divided dining room, we took the Fuki No Mori minibus 15 mins down the valley to Nagiso. We then took a train two stops to Nojiri and hiked 10k up and back. The road wasn’t particularly interesting or busy fortunately which meant Simone found some sticks and tramped and banged the low barriers to frighten off the bears. We should have bought some bells, but I’m still here to blog so all good. 

We had two dips in the Kiso River, the second in the most beautiful rock pools. The second was stunning and we managed to get away with skinny dipping without any passing cars. The water wasn’t as icy as the cold plunge pool in the onsen this morning and the air was warm enough to dry off quickly. 

We had to move into the western style room for our last night but the staff kept our low-tabled Japanese dining spot for us. Amongst the little dishes of sesame and umami veggies and pickles was a little pot of horse intestines. Not something I’ll be rushing back to Fuki No Mori or Japan for! 

Leaving the mountains draped in cloud and traveling back through the alps on a Limited Express train to Shinjuku. Last stop Tokyo to reacclimatise to city life before heading back to life.  

4. Cycling islands

Shimanami Kaido: Onomichi to (2 islands short of) Imabari - 29/30 March 2025

Cherry blossom lined our route along Shimanami Kaido - the cyclist’s paradise spanning six islands in the Seto Inland Sea, south of Hiroshima. 

The city run bike hire place was run by quirky elderly men who managed to find a “little assist” bike which was sufficiently upright to avoid back ache but was like a clown-like with her knees bumping the handlebars. With my Giant cross bike we set off on the small ferry to Mukaishima Island crossing one of many impressive suspension bridges. 

On the first island, Mukaishima, we chatted to Kawa who was checking on his rental property and invited us to stay next time. His guests were out kayaking. He had placed oranges along the walls, the symbol of Setoda where we were heading. Lemons were also grown and all things lemon from lemonade to cakes and biscuits were everywhere. 

We went off the blue marked roads of the Shimanami Kaido and took a quieter yellow route, not just for the views but also the chocolate factory! In operation since 2022 it on the 2nd floor of a former flower or flour factory built by “uncles”. The two lovely women talked us through the shades of hexagonal chocolate and drink delights and we shared the most addictive hot chocolate and rich dark choc cake. 

Felt a bit of a lightweight only cycling the 70k of Shimanami Kaido and stopping along the way for chocolate as met William from Brittany who was conquering the world on his bicycle - he’d left France 18 months ago, having cycled through Afghanistan, Iran, Tajikistan,….. South Korea (supposed to be an amazing route N to S. His life changing journey was triggered by being ripped off by someone when he put a deposit down on a house. Funny how fate works. 

We left William and headed to our cosy little hostel Nest, Youbune onsen warmed us up as we arrived cold and windswept and a few doors down was our favourite restaurant in Japan (so far) Keima, a family run sushi and “Kamameshi” (釜飯 -  a Japanese rice dish cooked in a small metal pot called a “kama”. We chose sushi set and sea bream kamameshi which took 30 mins to prepare. Nothing compared to the skill of cutting a daikon into a spiral that was then sliced into thin strips on which to place sushi and sashimi. 

Didn’t quite make it to sunset beach 

The location of Nest was perfect for morning qigong by the shrine and taiji behind the beach wall. 

I got my sunset beach swim the next day - found a little rocky bay to enter which was sheltered from the wind. 

We then decided to do the art tour of Omishima Island which meant we ran out of time to complete the 6 island route. 

We decided not to take a 1.5hr bus ride back to Onomichi but cycle back instead. Back at Setoda Simone had had enough of clown cycling and decided to save her knees to hike the Nakadendo Way. So she buses back to mainland and i cycled back 30k making it an 80k cycling day. Felt like finishing a triathlon. 

Planning my 60th - back to Japan for summer school with the S Korea bike ride en route (home). And I’ll complete the Shimanami Kaido as well. 

And I’ll definitely return to our lovely excitable squeaky young receptionists at Urashima Inn Gangi - the boat hotel with a view over the bay and a roof for taiji and our laundry that they took in and placed with our bags in our new room on return from Shimanami

Also enjoyed the cat alley walk and temple and viewpoint at Onomichi. 

5. Postal path

Magome to Tsumago

 

Arrived by 3 trains and a bus from Nakatsugawa, birthplace of a it’s own style of Kabuki-ji. 

Wheeled our bags uk the steep cobbled path to Tajimaya Minshuku (guesthouse) and welcomed by a lovely couple who showed us to out corner room with a great view down  the path for morning qigong. 

This lovely old lady (inside the hut) baked these delicious buns - I had custard with a little surprise chestnut in the middle. Demo oishi! 

We walked around the town and down the Nakasendo Way before the most delicious home cooked meal. Simone went back to don her Yukuta and Haori (jacket) as were most of the guests. 

The lovely owner came out and sang a song from 600 yrs ago. His dad was a teacher. Luckily dancing wasn’t compulsory!

The minshuku had shared toilets with plentiful toilet slippers and a private bath. 

Our bath was booked for 8-8.30pm and then the best dream filled sleep from 9.30pm-7am. 

The breakfast was a mix of Japanese (mackerel, miso, rice) and sadly western concession (ham, eggs & sausage & ketchup!) - a change from my first visit 7yrs ago.