Friday, April 20, 2012

Two weeks later....needles and noodles

This is visa extension week! Monday I was summoned to the Dean's office. Miss Wang told me I needed to see Mr Tong at the Foreign Students Hotel and he'd take me to the police station. The process was fairly quick and painless. Two days later I was driven along with two Chinese-Hungarian expats to the visa office. The two sisters are in fact cousins and their grandfather was a famous doctor who emigrated to Hungary after writing an important commentary on an unreadable ancient treatises on acupuncture. I await another phone call from Miss Wang to tell me that my passport stamped with a 6 month passport has been picked up. I also await with impatience an Easter parcel that is located somewhere in the university with Lindt chocolate, Thai curry paste and dental floss!

Spring has finally arrived and I will be staying on til the autumn. I noticed a stripey squirrel skipping up a bare tree last weekend and on Tuesday the first flowers – yellow forsythia – caught my eye as I was practicing taiji in the park. 

The class of 2012 has suddenly realised that we're not on holiday and Luke has calculated that he needs to write 1000 words a day before leaving Harbin at the end of May. My deadline is end of June, but as Simone's coming over for almost 3 weeks at the start of June (if she can get a train to Ulaanbatur, Mongolia, and back) I'd better get cracking too. So, a hold on the bus trips for a while, though I have got an invitation to go to my former Chinese teacher's house to look at her new bicycle as I want to get one here now the ice has melted.

 Alex models my scalp acupuncture creation








 Spring makes a reluctant appearance


 Student's tug of war competition on campus

It's been a funny fortnight. Group dynamics came to a head and the holiday honeymoon bubble has popped, and at times my calmic retreat loving kindness wore very thin. However, there is truth in the saying:

物极必反
wùjíbìfǎn

when things reach an extreme, they can only move in the opposite direction (idiom)
 
My return to the swimming pool after a week's absence due to dusty sore throat cold and a new 'peng' energy sensation whilst practicing taiji in the dusky dust of the famous doctors' walk has helped to shake the malaise.

While we were out bowling last Sat night, my classmate had a call from someone from the Confucius Institute asking him to sing a Chinese song. Having said yes, they informed him that it was in London for the 5th anniversary celebrations of the 1st Confucius Institute for Traditional Chinese Medicine based at London South Bank University. Seven hours later he was on a place to London via Shanghai!

That is quite reflective of the erratic decision-making process here. I thought it was just the way my patriarchal Chinese uncle operated during family trips to Penang, but since my arrival in the motherland I've encountered endless situations where deviations for the normal path of events is par for the course and events will be announced minutes or a few hours before. We Europeans get flustered but it's run-of-the-mill for the locals.

We also got caught up in the Confucian-confusion drama and were summoned to the main building to rehearse with our newly bought white Dr coats for a skype link with London South Bank University. After running though it for a couple of hours and failing to memorise our script we were told it was going to be scrapped, then they took a recording as the internet was too unreliable. 

We've completed our second week with a new doctor. I was surprised that after four days he let us put a needle in a patient. However, our technique sucked - we're used to using guide tubes in London (for hygiene reasons, so that the tip of the needle remains untouched) - and so I now have 20 needles in my feet, legs and abdomen in an attempt to make me feel more confident. However, when doing the rounds, I break into a hot sweat of panic, just standing in front of the patient who has given me their labelled test tube of needles. I have to take two sugical spirit-soaked balls of cotton wool. One I have to unmesh  into a rectangle and then turn the test tube so the tip of the needles fall into the cotton wool. These I then have to feed to the doctor as he adeptly threads them into the patient's scalp, torso and limbs. Today he left me two needles saying, "neiguan". I was glad he went on to the next patient and left me to persecute the French sister. Luckily she was too polite to scream and just grimaced. There are these two sisters with tattooed eyebrows and lips, one with a husband in Windsor and this one with a husband in Cannes.

Poor Yang Yang (the Canadian-Chinese post-grad scholarship student who has kept us all sane) had to do blood letting on the doctor's son's mother-in-law to be - stabbing her with a thin needle on the back several times and then fire cupping the area. She was less than quiet in expressing her agony. Along with Monica, a Hungarian student, I have become the Queen of moxibustion (or Mock Sebastian as my godmother guinea pig in London calls it). I did try and hide from the doctor as I have had to do the moaning mother-in-law a few time and the smell of burning moxa (or mugwort used to warm the needles and get the qi moving) is too much for my dusty sore throat. So Monica got the short(est) straw. A few minutes later Dr Cheung was on to the lumbar pain patient and turned round calling for Xining.... oh, that's me, damn. 




Actually it was great. The others all went off to lunch after a while and I sat down and chatted to two patients with the help of a very sweet Chinese first year student who stepped in with her mobile phone translator. Later I managed in Chinese to change a white coat for a size bigger and also attempted to find out about trains from Beijing to Ulaanbatur for the Swiss twins.

I had a funny moment tonight. I told this man in the noodle shop last week that I had a husband and 2 children back in England (I know, it was a little white lie but he was sitting drinking a bottle of rice whisky and beer and I thought it would be safer to say that). Then I went back today and he was there again.... and I realised he was the husband of the noodle shop lady and their 11 year old daughter was there. Silly me. The man joked that he wanted me to pay for my noodles with my iPhone, and the lady asked me to see a picture of my children. Well, I found the pic of Anna and Katie, my eldest neices. Then the man wanted to see my old man (husband). I found a picture of Jo and her kids and husband and he was the lucky man for me for about 2 seconds!

Flavour of Harbin

To get away from the group and campus and feel that I'm in China I plan to disappear for a few hours every weekend. Just get on a random bus and get off somewhere and wander around. Yesterday I found myself on the 209 and jumped off at Heilongjiang University campus and was invited to go bungee jumping with a group of fun-loving students from various local universities. Don't worry, it wasn't just the 8.30am on Sunday start that put me off. Simone was astounded "they asked you? Didn't they know you were 44?" That's why I love her! Say it how it is! No couching of the truth in British bush beating circumnavigation of the harsh truth.

Last night we went out for an amazing Korean meal in a restaurant that was like someone's living room. An upturned wok was lifted to reveal the fluffiest omelette, wonderful spinach and peanuts, bulgogi beef (bulldogee was on the menu - not these puppies or any other poor old dog for me!). The fermented tofu soup was a bit much too, but I'm still waiting to sample the "stinky tofu" and to suck marrow from bone soup with a straw... not!


Yesterday after clinic at 12.30 the weekend began. I joined the Chinese girlies in my group who were going for lunch with their Malaysian "boyfriend" for Harbin hotpot. I had already said no after the first BBQ poisoning but I thought it would be rude not to... (see pics). Plates of raw lamb, pork and veg fried at our table. I followed Guye and placed a glass of vinegar in front of me to dip the food into to drain off the globules of fat! Afterwards I felt rather "bu shu fu" (uncomfortable) and my afternoon of writing up case studies went out the window.










Sunday, April 8, 2012

Sights and soundscape: in Harbin for 1 month

Busy week back in Harbin. It was ancestor festival, people burning paper money and gold at crossroads in the streets to remember their ancestors. We had Wed off clinic, so I went out to the Avenue of the Famous Doctors for morning taiji. Alex and Guye joined me at 9 and I went through the 24 Yang form that they are learning in class.

I was about to say that it feels normal doing taiji here as there are so many people doing it here, along with the dancing, shouting, walking clicking prayer beads, walking backwards, walking and clapping, banging their backs, feet or hands on trees etc, but yesterday morning I turned round mid-Xinjia form to face a big SLR on a tripod!

Walking back to my hall today I happened across a group of Chen taiji practitioners. I watched for a while, the approached and asked if they were doing the same form as me. I was asked to demonstrate my form, and a woman in the group followed behind at the same pace so it must have been. I then asked the teacher if he'd teach me push hands. He was great. I just wish I could speak more. I did get a few tips, like the 3 sounds to make when pounding mortar and to have more "yi" - intent - when pushing hands. The teacher of this mainly sexagenarian group invited me to join him this evening... but cold and snow kept me indoors.

In Clinic our group of three has been more engaged this week. We're taking out needles and I'm getting to grips (literally) with placing the shorter ones in the gap between my index and middle finger and the longer ones between ring and little finger. When I've amassed enough from the plethora of points on the head then I put the pile in the test tube in my lab coat top pocket or that of my "tongshi" (classmate). Yesterday when I came back after clinic to change clothes (to my smelly jumper for the canteen - I keep it in the bathroom steam clean every time I shower, which is only possible 7-8am and 7-10pm when the water is hot). Tomorrow we start a new block with a famous doctor who is supposed to put students on the spot with questions and also gives lectures. I think I'll learn a lot more, but this first block has been fun and the doctor is so lovely, the room is like an extended family of stroke victims and their relatives who help each other and have such respect and gratitude for the doctor. As well as her quick diagnoses from MRI, CT scans etc and the wonderful faces of disgust she pulls on witnessing a vile tongue, or asking parents why their son is so fat, the case that I'll remember is the hypochondriac woman who had every test from the west and there was nothing wrong with her. After probing about her headache that wasn't a headache, kind of a sore feeling in the chest etc, the doctor coaxed the cause for maladie out of the patient - her daughter wasn't married! The doctor bluntly put rationality back into the patient's perspective - "look, you are the woman of the family. If you fall apart, the family will fall apart". After giving her a calming acupuncture treatment, she told the husband, if you go to Russia, you must take your wife". Who needs a shrink when you have Dr Zhao?

To get away from the group and campus and feel that I'm in China I plan to disappear for a few hours every weekend. Just get on a random bus and get off somewhere and wander around. Yesterday I found myself on the 209 and jumped off at Heilongjiang University campus and was invited to go bungee jumping with a group of fun-loving students from various local universities. Don't worry, it wasn't just the 8.30am on Sunday start that put me off. Simone was astounded "they asked you? Didn't they know you were 44?" That's why I love her! Say it how it is! No couching of the truth in British bush beating circumnavigation of the harsh truth.

Last night we went out for an amazing Korean meal in a restaurant that was like someone's living room. An upturned wok was lifted to reveal the fluffiest omelette, wonderful spinach and peanuts, bulgogi beef (bulldogee was on the menu - not these puppies or any other poor old dog for me!). The fermented tofu soup was a bit much too, but I'm still waiting to sample the "stinky tofu" and to suck marrow from bone soup with a straw... not!





Penang uncle and cousin at
Great Great Grandmother's tomb


Paper money... to burn




Fortune tellers and fruit stall
outside the uni gates




Roundabout en route to
Carrefour - the subway is
a labyrinth of shops


Pancake lunch option


Students having fun at a
different university


Blue sky in the morning


Dancing ladies behind my
taiji spot


My newfound Chen taiji
group behind an electric
scooter

To get away from the group and campus and feel that I'm in China I plan to disappear for a few hours every weekend. Just get on a random bus and get off somewhere and wander around. Yesterday I found myself on the 209 and jumped off at Heilongjiang University campus and was invited to go bungee jumping with a group of fun-loving students from various local universities. Don't worry, it wasn't just the 8.30am on Sunday start that put me off. Simone was astounded "they asked you? Didn't they know you were 44?" That's why I love her! Say it how it is! No couching of the truth in British bush beating circumnavigation of the harsh truth.

Last night we went out for an amazing Korean meal in a restaurant that was like someone's living room. An upturned wok was lifted to reveal the fluffiest omelette, wonderful spinach and peanuts, bulgogi beef (bulldogee was on the menu - not these puppies or any other poor old dog for me!). The fermented tofu soup was a bit much too, but I'm still waiting to sample the "stinky tofu" and to suck marrow from bone soup with a straw... not!







Monday, April 2, 2012

Twilight taiji in Chen Village

Ouch! My knees can feel how hard I worked this week! Desperate to soak up the last of the Qi of Chenjiagou I awoke at 2am! Rather than lie tossing and turning in between Svetlana and Eugenia (we were sharing a pretty unhygienic room with 3 single beds in a row) I got up and dressed silently in the dark and stole out into the courtyard. This morning ritual normally takes place around 6am, though I was out at 4.30am mid-week. Not too bad as I'm in bed between 9-10pm.

This twilight morn for the first 2hrs it was just me under the stars. A confused cockrel woke the barking guard dog, the chef (who later gave me a farewell hug when I went to fill my flask with hot water) made his way to the kitchen, a few young Chinese students started their daily running warm up. Later Chen XiaoXing, the grandmaster's upstaged humbler brother made his daily walk to get bread. As this was the last time I would perform this morning ritual so I saluted him.

So exhilarating meeting and training with Russians, Brazilians, Aussies, Germans, Japanese, Americans...
My temple Mantra - 'No compare, no fair' - came to the fore. There were several taiji teachers with varying styles and skills who hosted Grandmaster Chen XiaoWang or who ingratiated themselves sufficiently to be awarded the title of 'Disciple' at the mid-week ceremony in Chen temple next door. Some were to give donstrations of various forms along with Chinese students at the school and the demonstration was rounded off by Chen modest Xinjia followed by his brother's unleashed tiger pperformance! Fearsome!

Daryl, a lovely black American fom Seattle who was in Chenjiagou for the 36th time and discipled long ago explained that this and the 'Duan' gradings were part of the way in which CXW had got back in line with the Chinese government after deserting to Sydney in 80s.

Sadly taiji has become a commodity for the Chinese government. As well as standardising taiji and qigong forms they have found a lucrative way of keeping hold if the reins in taijiquan and other Chinese martial arts through gradings. The standard bearer of Chen taiji is my teacher, Grandmaster Chen XiaoWang.

There is a lovely myth of a monk in Wudang mountain, Chang Seng-Fen, creating taiji after watching a snake and crane fighting. The historical background is that Chen Wanting, a general, retired to his home village here in Henan in the centre of China and devised this internal martial art.

Today the village is becoming a commercial enterprise. There are Chinese kids training but the main source of income for the village is taiji tourism. Master Chen's brother owns this school and his cousin a rival school in the village. His sister owns a clothing and weapons shop. His ex-wife (of which there are quite a few) runs a shop, school and Tui Na massage place underneath this 'hotel' where I'm staying.

I have a feeling this is my first and last trip to Chenjiagou. I feel blessed to be here and to get posture corrections and encouragement from Tim the Aussie (of Cantonese origin) with a wealth of experience training with Mrs Chen (the 2nd) and Ying Jun (his first wife's son) in Oz. Also Nathan the cuddly buddhist brickhouse who helped me to open my eyes, literally, awakening the silk cocoon that my teacherless taiji had become, and needled my knee. Then there was Leandro the tall shy Brazilian taiji teacher and actor who gave me a t- shirt from his school in Rio. My Portuguese improved inverse proportionally to my Chinese!

I got a ride in a 4x4 with the Aussies to the airport after the best breakast of congee and meat-filled bread muffin (see pic). Why did I only discover this on the last morning? Actually the food's been ok, mainly veg and not as greasy as Harbin. It didn't help much that Aussie Sam was a chef at Spirit House in Brisbane - a Thai restaurant that I'd never heard of until the Thai boy (masters graduate with merit from Imperial College now) who stayed with Sim and I in Victoria Rd when he first arrived, a homeless student. Anyway I met for lunch with Mark and his real estate mum, Sue (who Tang got me in touch with when dad was thinking about selling his house...) and he gave me 2 Thai cookbooks ad we cooked a lot of Thai food for him. Maybe it wasn't up to scratch? So, I encounter coincidences along the way. Tim (Aussie's) wife is from Chowzhou - the ancient city with the reconstructed boat bridge neighboring Shantou where dad is from.

Delayed plane so I may miss the jiaozi (dumpling) dinner with the uni taiji group in Harbin. My Chinese classmates texted and rang me to give directions for Harbin airport if where to buy bus ticket, which bus to catch to the big bridge near Lin Da - our swimming uni.

The travel gods are still by my side. They have also returned to Simone and Cornelia who are in pittoresque Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. The got double entry 2x30 days visas for China so will travel together thro China to Mongolia. Then Sim will come back to meet me in Harbin around 5 June and Cornelia will trans-Siberian train it back to Basel.

Til then it's head down & hard work at clinic to make up for my week's taiji experience.




Chen XiaoXing's taijiquan school



My morning taiji spot below the very basic accommodation

Sunrise standing (or twilight on the last morning)

Russian roommates


Policeman playing Erhu in clinic


Crouching taiji cat





Chen temple


Baishi (disciple) ceremony



The Grandmaster Chen XiaoWang




Aussie training mates looked after me



Presentation of certificate

Exhausted and flying home to Harbin
(and looking forward to a room of my own!)